A while back I posted about how I managed to get my TaxCut software free this year by using coupons and playing the rebate game. I’m happy to report that I successfully received checks for all 5 rebates I submitted. I addition I sold off all the software I wasn’t going to use on Ebay so I actually made a small profit on the deal.
It wasn’t entirely without problems, one of the rebates was initially denied saying “Missing proof of previous ownership” on the status tracking website www.rebateshq.com. This was for an upgrade rebate that requires a photocopy of the previous CD or first page of user manual. I had included my photocopy as I am very methodical about doing rebates. Fortunately the tracking site had a contact form that I filled out with the problem. About 48 hours later I received an email that the problem had been fixed. I suspect they automatically deny a certain percentage of rebates, assuming that people won’t notice or care enough to follow-up. It pays to stay on top of things.
So here’s my how-to guide for rebates:
1. Read the rebate form immediately to find the postmark due date and be sure to complete it before then.
2. Verify that the product you purchased has no defects, missing parts, etc, as you can’t return it once you cut up the box.
3. Check if the rebate has a website for electronic submission, as this is usually faster and less error prone even though in most cases you still have to print out the completed submission and mail it. Otherwise just fill out the paper form you received.
4. Cut out the necessary proof of purchase from the product package. I recommend using a small piece of tape to loosely attach it to the rebate form as you don’t want the human that is opening the envelopes to drop it on the floor and lose it…
5. Make photocopies or computer scans of everything you are submitting.
6. Address the envelope using the address on the rebate form, write it exactly as on the rebate form and double check it.
7. If the rebate is for a significant amount (I usually say greater than $50), strongly considering sending it certified mail. I’ve never missed a rebate because it was “lost in the mail” but I wouldn’t want to have that perfect record ruined on a $100 rebate.
8. If there is a website listed on the rebate for status, check your rebate status starting 2 weeks after you mail it. If you notice that one of your rebates has been denied, call or email immediately. I think they are more likely to fix it without hassle if you’ve proven to be on the ball by reporting the problem immediately.
Jon Deals Deals, guide, how-to, rebates, rebateshq
The two most famous and useful online deals sites are Fatwallet.com and SlickDeals.net. My personal favorite is Fatwallet but there is nothing wrong with SlickDeals either.
Fatwallet has two important sections. The forums and the cashback sections. I’ll cover cashback first. The way cashback works is that you link to whatever website you are planning to purchase from through Fatwallet. By following their link, Fatwallet agrees to give you a percentage of their referral commission back as cash. The amount you’ll receive back varies by the store but it can add up very quickly. My lifetime cashback is over $80 for doing nothing more than going to Fatwallet first before making online purchases. You have sign up for an account on Fatwallet first before you can receive cashback but it’s quick and free.
The forums section of Fatwallet is where the real value is, particularly the Hot Deals forum. I highly recommend getting an account, not just for the cashback but for the extra sorting and searching options it will give you in the forums. I normally set my view to “by recent topics” instead of the default of “by recent messages.” This helps to separate the old deals from the new as the newest topics will appear first.
You’ll notice green and red bars that appear next to a post, these are the rating that allows Fatwallet members to rate a deal. The more green a deal has, the better the members think the deal is. Fatwallet members tend to be a very frugal bunch and understand market valuation well, as such just your typical Amazon low price will not generate green. It takes an unusually low price to generate alot of green.
It’s worth noting that many of the posted deals involve rebates. While rebates aren’t typically a problem, retailers and product manufacturers know that most people never manage to send in the rebate. So if you are the type to forget a rebate, its probably best to pass on the deals that require a rebate. Also, some rebate processors are better than others, so it makes sense to read the comments to see what members past experience with the rebates from that particular company have been.
Another important detail is that many deals don’t last very long. If the price is really good, it’s going to sell out quick. Sometimes its a price mistake and is quickly corrected. Sometimes it’s a sale that is only scheduled for one day or a coupon code that expires soon. Be prepared to decide quickly if a deal is for you.
If anybody has any experience with other deals sites, I’d love to hear about it.
Jon Deals cashback, Deals, fatwallet, slickdeals
