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Why The Obsession With Credit?

March 24th, 2009

One thing that, I think, makes me unique among Americans is that I’ve never paid a dime of interest charges in my life.  I’ve always rented my housing.  I paid cash for the one car I’ve purchased, the previous junker having been given to me by my parents after I graduated college.  I’ve borrowed 0% money from credit cards, to engage in interest rate arbitrage.  But in all I’ve never paid for the privalege of using somebody else’s money.

I realize I’m the oddball when I hear friends talk about their car payments, virtually everyone either: has one or has recently paid it off and is well on their way to financing yet again.  Why would you use credit to purchase a depreciating asset, that will be worth considerably less than you paid for it by the time you pay it off?  I hear things like “I can’t wait to pay this car off so that I can get a new one” or “hopefully we can get a few more years out of our first car so that we can finish paying off the second first.”  This kind of thinking traps you into financially dangerous situations.  The decision to replace a car should be made when the car is no longer practical.  Situations such as, when it’s no longer able to get you to work reliably or when a significant expensive component fails and it’s no longer economical to repair.

I can understand a salesman’s obsession with credit.  It’s much easier to sell a “$30 a month” Bose sound system than a “$2000″ Bose sound system as optional equipment on a car.  Talking monthly payments also helps him to obscure calculations and do some math trickery to maximize your spending.  The $20 extra per month for you could turn into hundreds for him.

Credit certainly does have a place.  For a person fresh out of college with a job but no car and no money yet, credit allows that person to get the car that enables them to get to work.  For them, they get return on their investment.  The interest payment allows them to go to work to make even more money.  Compare this situation with a person who already has a car coming out of college.  It may not look great but there’s a good chance Dad probably did his research and got you a nice reliable car to take to college.  In this situation you can already get to work and make the big bucks.  What investment return does paying those interest charges get you?  Not a damn thing.

It’s unfortunate that the US has become so reliant on credit. Just look what’s happened to the economy in the past 2 years.  The banks reduce their lending and the proverbial “stuff” hits the fan.  It’s not like they even reduced their lending much.  If you’re the type that pays your bills ontime and aren’t already fully leveraged there’s a good chance banks will lend to you.  Just turn on the TV virtually any time and see the advertisements for cars, along with financing offers.  The money is there to be lent, only now it’s only to the right borrowers.  This small reduction in lending is enough to plunge the stock market thousands of points.

Maybe I’m the crazy unusual one again, but I think when the market hits bottom and starts heading up again I hope it’s based on normal lending patterns, the kind where the good borrowers get credit and others pay cash.  If we start the economy again with constrained credit, we’ll find a way to make it work.  The money will still be there to be lent to people making investments:  in careers, in businesses, and other credit strategies that provide returns.  At the same time, credit will be limited for consumerism.  In other words, provide the credit for production, not consumption.  Sorry “$30 a month” Bose sound system…

Jon Finance

Strategies For Getting Your Credit Cards Paid Off

April 25th, 2008

The only debt I carry on credit cards is 0% arbitrage money that I reinvest at higher rates. For many people however, just getting your high interest cards paid off is a challenge. What follows is some strategies to minimize the interest you pay and help you get them paid off faster.

First of all, you need to determine how you ended up having all that high interest credit card debt in the first place. Did you splurge on a big weekend in Vegas and spend more than you could pay back? Did you go a little crazy redecorating the house? Did you have unexpected medical bills? However, if you have a habit of spending beyond your means, you must get that under control before you can have any hope of getting those bills paid down. Strategies for getting your spending under control is up to you or a topic for another article ;-) .

You need to dig out all your latest credit card statements. On your statements, near the end of the bill, will be a summary of finance charges. You need to make note of all the different finance charges on your cards. You will need to concentrate on getting the absolute highest rate paid off first. So if you have $500 to allocate to payments each month, first pay the minimum on all cards, then pay the remainder of the $500 towards the card with the highest rate.

Interest charges accrue continuously(not just in 30 day chunks), so when you have some extra money, use it to pay off your card immediately. Don’t leave it sitting in the checking account waiting for it to be due, go online and make a bill payment immediately. Most credit cards allow you to pay 4 or more times per month using their payment system and if that is not enough, just write out a check and send it in. An added benefit is that it’s paid before you’ve had chance to spend it, without the money burning a hole in your pocket…

On to the more advanced strategies. You probably receive offers in the mail all the time from both your existing cards and new credit cards offering low rate balance transfers. If you don’t, just ignore this section. These offers can vary greatly in their value. For example I posted earlier about a 0%, no fee offer I received from my Citi Diamond Preferred card. This is an example of the best possible offer you will receive. Suppose you have an existing balance at 12% and you receive an offer for 4.99% for the life of the balance, this is obviously a very good deal for you as you’ll be saving 7% in interest charges. Be sure to read the fine print as there are typically fees associated with the balance transfer. These fees are usually 3% with a $5-$10 minimum, often with no maximum. When there is a fee involved you need to determine how long you think it will take you to pay it off. If you plan to have the balance paid off in 6 months, a 3% fee equates to 6% APR so it’s unlikely you’ll benefit. But if its going to take you 2 years to pay off the debt, a 3% one time fee is a small price to pay.

So here’s the quick summary:

1. Pay highest rate card first.

2. Pay the bills as soon as you have the money.

3. Take advantage of offers to lower your effective interest rate.

If you have any questions or comments feel free to post and I’ll try to respond.

Jon Credit cards , , ,

Citi Balance Transfer Offers: Free Money!

April 17th, 2008

I normally only give my credit card statements a passing glance. All of my transactions are downloaded automatically to Quicken. However in my April statements I was glad I looked. My Citi Dividend card had an offer for 0% balance transfer until 11/2008, with a $75 max fee. Then I checked my Diamond Preferred card, it had an offer for 0% balance transfer until 11/2008 with no fee. While I often get these kind of offers with new credit cards, it’s rare to see them on existing accounts.

One of the nice things about Citi balance transfers is they will just send you a check or you can write out a check yourself using the checks that come with your bill and still be eligible for the balance transfer rate. Be sure to read your particular fine print carefully though as this can and does change.

The best way to use these balance transfer checks is to take the money and put it in a high yield savings account. This is called interest rate arbitrage. You might read in the newspaper about hedge funds doing it as well. The difference is that hedge funds borrow money from much larger sources, such as Japanese banks, at low rates and then invest that money at higher rates. In Japan, banks will lend you money for as low as 1% interest. The hedge funds then reinvest this money at European or US banks paying 3-5% interest and pocket the 2-4% difference. Obvious this practice is not without risk, as currency exchange rates can change rapidly.

Similarly, you can borrow from a credit card at 0% and reinvest at a higher rate. The idea is though, that you want to minimize your risk as when that balance transfer promo period is over, the rate skyrockets. For this reason I recommend sticking with FDIC insured high yield savings accounts. You want to be able to pay back the balance in full the month before your rate skyrockets.

With 0% and no fees, its a given that you will make money. How much depends on your credit line, your high yield savings interest rate, and the length of the promo period. So if the promo period is 1 year, you borrow $10,000, and the interest rate is 3%, you’ll make ~$300 for doing nothing more than making minimum payments every month for a year and paying in full in month 12.

Jon Credit cards , , ,

Don’t Believe The Hype: Housing Has Much Further To Fall

April 16th, 2008

If you’ve listened to the radio or watched TV lately I’m sure you’ve seen or heard the commercial telling you “it’s a great time to buy.” Here is the youTube of the commercial:

I’m certainly skeptical of their claims. The value of a home doubles every ten years? My parents have lived in their home for 25 years now and it’s probably just moving into double territory now. All the while they have been making improvements and doing maintenance. It should be noted that they live in suburban Pittsburgh, a town which has not participated in the housing bubble. Clearly if they purchased based on advice like this they would be hiring a lawyer… Historically even the bubble areas even out over time, the appreciation on a home typically exceeds inflation by less than 1%. Given the low inflation numbers in recent years, it’s very clear that things are way out of perspective.

So if my parents aren’t making any money on their home appreciation, why would anyone buy a home in suburban Pittsburgh? The answer is because it is cheaper than renting. My sister recently purchased a townhome there in the $150k range, 3 bed, 2 bath, garage, 2000 SQ Ft. at with 20% down and 6% APR for 30 years it puts her payment in the neighborhood of $700 a month, of which $120+ goes to principle every month. The interest charge is $580 and decreases every month. Renting a similar home would cost about $1150 a month. Obviously renting avoids the costs of homeownership such as property taxes (1.5% of home’s value a year in her area = $2250) and maintenance(estimated at 1% of home’s value a year = $1500). So $700 - $120 priciple + $187 taxes + $125 = $892 a month to buy vs. $1100 to rent. Buying is clearly cheaper.

Now let’s compare that to my situation in suburban Boston, a bubble area. I am currently renting a 2 bed, 1 bath, 1100 SQ Ft. apartment in a two family building for $1500. The building is currently assessed at $600,000. If I purchased half the building for $300,000 (my unit) the mortgage would be $1450 a month at the same 20% down, 6% APR for 30 years. If we run the same 1.5% tax and 1% maintenance here we get: $1450 - $238 + $375 + $250 = $1837 a month to buy vs. $1500 to rent. Renting is clearly cheaper.

I’ve ignored 2 factors in these calculations: insurance and taxes. Insurance can vary greatly based on where the house is, how old it is, etc. The calculation would be far too complex to introduce here but suffice it to say its a significant cost. It’s true that there is a significant tax benefit on the interest portion of your mortgage payment, however you need to be careful to include the fact that by itemizing your deductions you give up your standard deduction. A simple calculation of the tax savings would be (interest paid - $3000) x .25 = tax savings for single filers and (interest paid - $6000) x .25 = tax savings for married filers.

Renting has various intangible benefits. I don’t have to shovel snow. I don’t have to cut the grass. Water, sewer, landscaping, and snow removal is included in my rent. If I change jobs and want to move closer, I can move as soon as my lease is up. So the question then becomes why would anyone buy in the Boston area when the price vs. rent calculation is so out of whack? The answer previously was to get in on that great doubles every 10 years appreciation. It’s very clear that the days of double digit appreciation are over. That incentive is completely gone. So it’s starting to become very clear where the bottom will be for housing prices. When it costs more to rent than to buy is when prices will start to stabilize. Until then prices will continue to fall.

Jon Budget, Economy, Finance , , , , ,

It’s April 15th, Did You Pay Income Tax This Year?

April 15th, 2008

I mailed my check for over $1300 to the IRS yesterday. Turns out my total income tax liability this year was over $14,000. Ouch. So imagine my dismay this morning when the local talkshow host Michael Graham ran off some current statistics about who pays income tax. 2007 will be the first tax year where a majority of the American population pays no federal income tax. That’s right: over 50% of Americans have a total tax liability of $0. While I’m not sure where they got the data, I was able to find the data for 2006, where 41% of Americans had a total tax liability of $0.

One of the classic examples for highlighting statistics like this: Look around you, between you and your neighbor, one of you is not paying any tax. While in the case it probably doesn’t work because you generally won’t find yourself in an environment with an equal mix of taxpayers vs. non-taxpayers. Where it probably would work pretty good is if you were riding the subway. Next time you are on public transportation, give this statistic some thought, half the people on that vehicle pay no income tax whatsoever.

Some other interesting statistics: if your AGI is over 62,068 you are in the top 25% of taxpayers and you are a member of a group paying over 86% of all income taxes, source. When you hear politicians talk about “the rich” they might just be talking about you.

Jon Finance , ,

Making an online bank your primary bank

March 26th, 2008

logo.gifI’ve been banking with E*Trade Bank for almost 4 years now. I really can’t remember how I got along without them. People (especially older people) ask me how I use a bank that has no brick and mortar branches and no ATMs. The reality is it works out quite well.

How do you deposit money?

Two ways: ACH transfers and by mail. I primarily use ACH transfers and E*Trade excels at this. You can push money into and pull money from virtually any account with an ACH compatible routing and account number. They seem to allow unlimited number of links and you don’t have to send them a check like other institutions like ING or EmigrantDirect. To deposit money by mail, simply stuff you checks into an envelope and stick on a provided address sticker and postage. 4-5 days later your funds are available in your account. In the past they provided postage paid envelopes but last time I called them for more they said they were discontinued, $0.41 is still less than the gas it costs to drive to the bank, unless you can walk to your bank.

How do you take money out?

Again ACH is great to get money to other accounts. To get cash go to any ATM. Don’t worry about fees because E*Trade will reimburse you immediately for any fees paid to the ATM. No more worrying about the $5 ATM fee on the cruise ship, in the casino, or in the local pub. No more worrying about stopping to get cash on your way out for the night as the machine at your destination is just as good as any. This is by far the feature I like most about this account. I even used the ATM card to get cash in Europe and received the best exchange rate of the entire trip and I couldn’t find any fee that was charged.

How are the interest rates?

Best in the business as far as I am concerned. Their high yield savings is currently 3.45% and a leader among online banks. They beat brick and mortar banks by a large margin. They don’t seem to have “loss leader” teaser CD’s like the brick and mortars but their CD rates beat non-promotional rates any day. An added bonus is that you don’t need to actually go to the bank to cash in a CD before it auto-renews, simply call them. Every brick and mortar that I have dealt with requires you to actually go to the bank to cash in your CD.

The one and only problem with the account?

There is no way to deposit cash. Honestly I never deposit cash anyway but for this reason only I have a checking account with Citizens Bank to fill the hole. I chose Citizens because they have supermarket branches that are open evenings and weekends unlike virtually every other bank, so it offers nearly the same convenience as E*Trade but at the expense of not earning interest on checking and not having a competitive high yield savings account.

Jon Finance , ,

Value of Time: Why use after tax dollars when calculating savings?

March 20th, 2008

In my previous post I highlighted how spending 10 minutes to save $3 is a wise use of one’s time unless one is very highly compensated. You’ll noticed that my calculation included an adjustment to account for cost savings using after-tax dollars.

There are two ways to look at cost savings, either A. you are simply diverting spend from somewhere else or B. equivalent amount of time worked to achieve the same outcome. So if saving $3 at a toll means you have $3 less beer money for the bar later, the money was already allocated for spending and therefore there is no need to calculate its pre-tax value. You have simply traded a beer for 10 minutes of time. If spending $3 on a toll does not reduce other spending, you need to look at how long it would take you to earn that money back which would be pre-tax dollars.

Using a pre-tax dollars is a great way to determine is something is really as valuable as it seems. The calculation is easy as well.

After-tax value / ( 1 - effective tax rate) = Pre-tax value
Example: $250 / (1 - .3795) = $402

Something to think about when considering a discretionary purchase.

Jon Finance

Why writing a check on April 15th is the best outcome

March 14th, 2008

I still have not run my 2007 numbers through TaxCut, but I’m nearly certain I’ll end up owing a large sum of money to the feds and the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. I have no worries about getting hit with underpayment penalties because I did withhold 100% of my 2006 tax liability in 2007.

Let’s say I end of up owing $1500. While there’s probably more math to this than my rough estimate, that’s an average of $750 for 16 months at 0% interest. If I reinvest that $750 risk free at 5% (which was common in 2007) for 16 months, I’ll net $50 in interest. Sounds like a good deal to me, $50 free for doing nothing more than properly setting my withholdings. In the reverse case you are losing money, suppose you get a $1500 refund, that’s $1500 of your money you loaned to the government interest free, while the Treasury was paying savvy investors 5% interest for the same privilege. The opportunity cost of that money is even higher if you are making payments on a loan at a rate higher than 5%. Instead of paying the extra money to the government, you could have been making the payments to your loan and reducing the interest paid.

I find refund anticipation loans to be comical. You give an interest free loan to the government for a whole year and then pay sometimes 30% APR to get that money back a week or two earlier? Not smart. I don’t think we’ll ever see the government really crack down on this because it might actually result in people becoming educated about how taxes work. The more you know about taxes, the less you will like(tolerate) them, substantially reducing public support for tax increases in the future.

So remember when you file your taxes, if you aren’t writing a check there’s a good chance you should be revisiting your W-4 and changing your withholdings.

Jon Finance

If you were only to have one credit card, what would it be?

February 29th, 2008

My wallet and sock drawer are full of credit cards, currently I have 12 active credit card accounts. The reason I have so many is to take advantage of various promotions, cashback earning methods, and 0% balance transfers. While this works great for me, it might not be so easy for everyone. Remembering to pay 5+ different bills every month on different days is not for the disorganized.

So the other day, one of my friends explained that she was no longer going to be traveling for work and thought that her miles earning card with an annual fee was no longer worthwhile. She asked what I would suggest as a replacement. My first question was, how many cards do you want to get? She looked at me funny and said, “One of course.” At that point I had to give it some serious thought. If I were only to have one card, what would it be? I kind of thought out loud, well maybe the Citi Dividend Preferred or one of the Chase 3% cards. Her husband had the Citi Diamond Preferred, which earns Thank-You points. My problem with that card is that while great for the first year, earning 5% on everyday purchases, after the first year its a flat 1%. The Diamond Preferred earns Thank-You points which can be redeemed for gift cards or preferably airline tickets using the fixed price option which can essentially double your reward to 2%. The reality is though, if managing several credit cards is too complicated for you, getting maximum value for a flight redemption is probably out of the question.

So my conclusion: Citi Dividend Preferred - Earning 1% CASH back on everything and 2% CASH on gas, grocery, drugs, and utilities. Simple enough for the masses but still yielding high cashback.

Jon Credit cards